Men’s Doublet of silk.
This pattern requires 2 3/4 yards of 22″ wide fabric.

Basic doublet. light peascod, gently padded

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Alcega’s jerkin of wool cloth. This takes 50 inches of 66-inch wide fabric.

Note that the only real difference between this garment and Alcega’s cassock is the separate cut of the skirt in back. Because of this, it is often difficult to tell the difference in portraits unless you see the back of the subject. Village scenes are particularly useful for this.

Grey Wool Alcega Jerkin

Made by: Mathew Gnagy

Jerkin from Alcega, Cut to his exact proportions, deep peascod in place. For stouter men, I use less padding in the peascod, but keep in mind, that the peascod shape is NOT the same as a fat tummy. The proportions are specific and intentional. Peascods look better on a slimmer guy.

Jerkin back view. Note that the skirt is a full circle at the hem. The wedge style sleeves are shown in portraits being used as a closed sleeve…as they are here, or as a hanging sleeve.

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This gown is my favorite. It is a loose backed gown with a doublet style front. In Alcega’s own words, it has lacing strips, at the side back seams, or a false back that holds the doublet style front tight against the body. Rather like a precursor to the 18th century Watteau gown.

This gown takes 13 1/8 yards of 22-inch wide fabric.

Mongil Trancado

by Mathew Gnagy

The mongil trançado with hanging sleeves

front view

Spanish dressing gown/loose gown. This is the same shape as the other gowns, but when the collar is complete, it looks rather like a high upright doublet collar. This gown takes 3 1/5 yards of 22-inch wide fabric.

Spanish Saya

by Mathew Gnagy

This is the pattern in Alcega for the woman’s Ropa. I merely changed the sleeve design to resemble the one in POF even though the cut is different. It still looks and wears very similarly.

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Shawl collar dressing gown with regular hem. this has a long hanging sleeve….similar to the Persian coats with long narrow hanging sleeves. Sometimes in portraits, you see the sleeve left unsewn and hanging open, sometimes its sewn closed and hangs down the back of the arm

Shawl collar dressing gown with extra full hem.

It’s the same gown as the previous, but with a lot of extra fulness in the hem. It is possible that the softer drape of wool required a wider hem to achieve the same look as the narrower hem in silk.

Double tier heavy wool felt traveling cloak. The double tier is rather like a duster style coat. This pattern takes 4 yards of 44″ wide fabric.

The pieces on the lower right are actually the collars of the lower layer. The hood is attached to the lower layer. The upper layer has a  the gathered neck, but the collar pieces shown in the middle are actually attached to the upper layer inside the neck of the hood. This is the only garment in Alcega that is shown with a single layer layout. The felt only comes in specific dimensions. You are also looking collars and collar facings.

A single-layered wool traveling cloak. This cloak takes 4 yards of 44″ wide fabric.

Here is an extant  double tiered felt traveling cloak. The hood is amazing. When properly closed it actually resembles a fighting helmet

Full womans gown with large pointed style hanging sleeves. It takes 17 1/8 yards of 22-inch wide fabric.
Note, The center back length of the skirt is 99 inches in this draft…its VERY long and the hem width of the back is insanely wide. It looks SOOO very rich when made up.

Blue Brocade Gown

Made by: Mathew Gnagy

Saya skirt with the 99″ center back skirt length…the puntigada sleeves and exact proportional cut for her height. In this shot, her skirt has been hooked up like a bustle.

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This is a low neckline gown. Literally translated as ‘skirt and bodies’ of silk. It requires 5 yards of 22 inch wide silk.
It has become my assumption of the years of working with this book that this is the layer which is intended to give all the support. I believe that corsets were less common than we assume.

It is logical to assume that the front skirt would be cut to shape during construction. In the Pfalzgrafin gown in Arnold’s <em>Patterns of Fashion</em>, they have simply folded back the excess and left it hanging inside. In later manuals, Burguen, for example, the shape of the center front of the skirt is shown with the point shape trimmed out already.

It’s also clear from the way it’s laid out in the book that there is a seam at CB and at CF…you could have the opening at either location.

White brocade low-necked gown

Made by Mathew Gnagy

A gown with the low bodice of this pattern and the trained skirt of the Women’s High-bodied trained gown with hanging sleeves pattern.

Nice back view of the skirt

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Simple trained gown of wool. It seems that the the Saya is only referring to the skirt with the train, and the Cuera is denoting the doublet and the style of sleeve is also referenced. This pattern takes 4 7/8 yards of 66″ wide fabric.

This is a pattern for a silk veil. I used this draft to cut and create the silk wired veil in the following photos. It takes 8 yards of 22″ wide fabric.

Purple Silk Gown and Wired Veil

Made by: Mathew Gnagy

Gown and wired veil. All parts of this gown are made to alcega’s measures. This woman was a flawless fit model size for the standard Alcega patterns

This wired veil is made from the previous pattern.